KUALA LUMPUR, May 23 — Last month, I wrote a story about Ah Sang Teochew Restaurant, a business that has been selling braised duck in the Taman Cheras (Yulek) area since the 1980s.
In that piece, I cited a Guang Ming Daily article that traced the restaurant’s history back to the current owner’s father.
Among the details that piqued my curiosity was a passing mention of a younger brother who had also started his own braised duck place.
That lined up with what my colleague told me when he first passed on the tip. So I set out to try it.
If Ah Sang, despite moving to a new shop as recently as 2023, stands for the older, still-existing side of Cheras, then Mr Duck is playing for the other team, the newer, flashier, more air-conditioned Cheras.
The restaurant is conveniently located on the ground floor of Wisma Aman Elite. — Picture by Ethan Lau
The Guang Ming Daily story mentioned that the younger brother first set up in Taman Taynton View.
He moved Mr Duck to Wisma Aman Elite, directly across from EkoCheras Mall, in December 2022.
Ample basement parking is one of the perks of being in a commercial development like this, along with a steady supply of office workers.
On a weekday afternoon, there were one or two big groups, with the rest made up of smaller duos and trios from nearby offices.
The menu doesn’t stray far from the expected: braised duck, chicken, pork, tofu and porridge. But it’s geared toward both large sharing options and smaller, individual portions for solo diners.
Plain, watery white porridge with braised pork ear/face, and the super sharp chilli sauce. — Picture by Ethan Lau
I settled for a small portion each of braised duck (RM13), braised pork ear and face (RM8), and a large white porridge (RM2).
It is tempting to do the obvious and compare the two, to subject you, dear reader, to the rigmarole of “which brother does it better?” as if there is only one way to enjoy braised duck.
I must resist that temptation, but only because the two are so clearly and distinctly different in style that any comparison would miss the point.
They may make the same dish, may have learned from the same father, and are still only five minutes apart, but each has taken his braised duck in a different direction.
The braised pork ear/face contains slices from both parts, contrasting soft fat and snappy cartilage. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Both duck and pork are braised till tender, though the face, or more accurately, the cheek, is just slightly more luscious, while the ear is full of snappy cartilage.
The real test, though, is in the braising stock, and Mr Duck favours a heavier hand with the spices. Clove is particularly distinct; it is the first thing you taste, and it lingers all the way through.
That strong, sweet warmth is offset by a sharp, spicy chilli sauce, though on its own, the stock can be overwhelming for some.
It is a flavour profile suited to those who prefer intensity and depth in their braised meats without the cloying weight of something more savoury, though you do have to like clove to really enjoy it.
A small portion of braised duck at Mr Duck Teowchew Braised. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Surprisingly, I found myself pouring the sauce into my plain, characteristically watery porridge, despite not thinking of myself as a clove fan.
There is a balance to the stock, and Mr Duck walks that line well.
In the end, trying Mr Duck only deepened my conviction that putting the brothers head to head does a disservice to both.
Each has taken the same dish in a different direction, shaped by their own tastes and ideas of what braised duck should be.
Rather than ask which is better, it is more rewarding to appreciate the variety they offer: two great takes on braised duck that coexist, each with its own character and loyal following.
鸭先生-潮州卤味 Mr Duck Teowchew Braised (since 1988)
G-02, Wisma Aman Elite,
Jalan Desa Aman 1,
Taman Desa Aman, Kuala Lumpur
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11am-3.30pm, 5-8pm
Tel: 012-236 6688
Facebook: Mr Duck Teowchew Braised
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
